The Stylesmyths: Vintage Fashion Reportage On Broadway

The Stylesmyths: Vintage Fashion Reportage On Broadway

From vintage Playbills to politics; resistance in brocade and bourbon.

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40 Carats

February 26, 2011 2 Comments


Forty Carats

Zsa Zsa Gabor Forty Carats 1970 Playbill

Cougars, (the sexy mature female, and not the purring feline) you might think, are an invention of the new millennium. Not true dear reader.  In fact, sizzling, subversive romances between vital young men and women-of- a- certain-age (40 plus– for many “the age of reason”) have long been a source of literature, both farce and tragedy. Rarely, if ever, do these liaisons result in a happily-ever-after coupling on page, stage or screen.  Even Sex and the City’s voraciously determined Samantha ends her relationship with Smith, her thirty-something lover, to once again redefine herself and pursue her own path, at age 50.

This week while thumbing through my vintage playbill collection, I came across one from 1970 for Broadway play Forty Carats, which ran for 780 performances at the Morosco Theatre. Adapted from a French comedy and written by Jay Allen, it opened in 1968 with a cast starring Julie Harris. Two seasons later, stunning Hungarian actress Zsa Zsa Gabor followed Harris in her debut Broadway role playing lead Anna Sandy. She won the 1970 Tony for her performance. The comedy revolves around a 40-year old American divorcee who is assisted by a 22-year-old when her car breaks down during a vacation in Greece.  Their romantic encounter turns potentially serious, when he turns up on her New York City doorstep– to take her 17-year-old daughter on a date!  Sandy’s Mother, ex-husband and a lecherous real estate client adds to the ensemble making for a comedy that became a popular vehicle with the cougar-set.

The 1970s was an age of shifting American mores and a loosening of social restrictions. It was the “ME” generation (EST –now rebranded The Forum, self-enlightenment philosophy, sexual revolution and women’s lib took hold), that was framed by a counter-culture psychedelia that opened the door to pop art, punk and disco. While this sense of personal freedom and expression created transformation on all levels, it also harkened in darker elements of social unrest and a decay in common civility.  I find it interesting that this week’s guest fashion editor Bernice Peck observes the same in her column On a personal bias entitled “Bergdorf Goodman loves me.”

Reflecting the casual social order in mode and dress were her fashion picks of ribbed turtleneck sweaters in a dozen colors of cashmere-and courtelle, worn with a perfectly cut skinny midi skirt in fake snake (the big thing for the fall).  For the young man in your life: a great shaped midi raincoat, martingale back and inverted pleat right to the shoulderblades, black or navy gaberdine.  Pure wool Irish knits with clever cable details.  To top you off; The Miss Bergdorf Fur Boutique has a rich-hippie vest in blurry natural lamb fur, all trimmed with suede fringe (groovilicious!)…

 

Bernice Peck On a personal bias, Bergdorf Goodman loves me

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Bergdorf Goodman Loves Me”                   

On a personal bias by Bernice Peck

“If you shop without encountering the put-down, congratulations.  But half the women I know are rapping about the rise of rudeness in the stores.  As for me, my spirit was broken long ago, snubbed by some of the cheesiest sales Ladies in town.

I have waited (evidently invisible) while two of them finished a leisurely chat about pot roast or the skin flick at the Bijou.  I have had my fashion sense evaluated by a real frump—“We got no call for that type of thing,” she intones.  At tomorrow’s sales meeting the buyer will tell her it’s the next dish on the fashion menu.  Another sweet snub is “Not in your size,” which is a twelve, delivered with aplomb by a lardy size 40.  Deflating, isn’t it?

All of which finds me going more and more to Bergdorf Goodman, I don’t need to be fawned on, but I do enjoy their graceful, natural courtesy—plus what certainly appears to be an honest interest in my needs.  In a store that probably has the most millionaires on its billing list, this is simply standard customer-attitude as laid down by Andrew Goodman, the boss.  Anyway, it makes me feel good, makes whatever I buy seem a proper bargain—and who’s averse to that?  Just what is a bargain anyway?  To me: getting more for the same money.  I find this true at Bergdorf’s where it constitutes more chic, fashion, elegance, class, exclusiveness in designs and much more personal service.  This goes all the way down the line.  All in all, especially when my stocks and spirits are down, the best place for me is Bergdorf’s where, whatever I spend, the boss won’t let anyone patronize me.”

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Many would say that lack of consideration still defines our culture.  And rudeness and violence continues to exacerbate unchecked. I do however; see the start of something different.  This week’s turn of events in Libya reinforce the fact that cult-of-personality leadership is finished in the 21c.  It won’t stand the test of social networking and 24/7 news media. The undercurrent rippling throughout our connected globe is saying, “enough is enough.” We can only hope that what results from this techno convergence and street-level reaction, is a democratic outcome for the people.  Civil discourse, dignified respect–or lack thereof– is foremost on people’s minds. My friend Susan DiStaulo and I were shopping at New York’s Bergdorf Goodman recently–well, mostly looking at their fine accessories rather than purchasing.  We agreed that this was the best department store in the city, the most beautifully merchandised and pleasant with great customer service.  I am sure that Ms. Peck would be gratified to know that her observations echo true some forty-years forward, but equally as dismayed to understand that this level of service is still valued as unusual and rare. I leave you with these little known facts about the glamorous and sophisticated Zsa Zsa Gabor, who at her debut in Forty Carats had already starred in more than thirty films and made three hundred television appearances.  She spoke six languages, was the chairman of her own cosmetics company and was educated in Vienna, Luzanne and Turkey.  An accomplished sportswoman she was the Junior Ping-Pong champion of Hungary, also adept at fencing, swimming and tennis, and at the time was one of the few women in the world to play polo.  She won the title of Miss Hungary at the age of 15.

To all the independent ladies, in the spirit of Anna Sandy and Zsa Zsa Gabor, drip on your grandmother’s largest jewels, grab your favorite faux fur and head out with your other single lady friends on a trip downtown or to a Greek island…you never know what new adventure awaits unless you take the initiative and leave the comforts of your cougar den! Until we meet again…

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The Salty Dog Cocktail

This week I share a Vodka cocktail creation of the 1970s “Me” generation celebrating both Zsa Zsa’s Eastern European roots and her 1970 Tony Award-winning performance in Forty Carats. Wishing Ms. Gabor a very happy recent 95th birthday. And to celebrate those qualities that remain untarnished with undeniable staying power…in her prime, she was beautiful, independent and accomplished—often forgotten in those dim memories of her too-frequent appearances on Merv Griffin and The Tonight Show. So go ahead, mix up a tangy, briny Salty Dog and Egészségedre! (Hungarian for Cheers!)

The Salty Dog: The Vodka-based Screwdriver of the fifties became the Greyhound of the seventies when grapefruit juice was substituted for orange juice. Rim the glass with either plain or lime rock salt for a twist to make the Greyhound a Salty Dog. Over ice in a tall glass rimmed with salt, combine grapefruit or pink grapefruit juice and a shot and a half of your favorite vodka.

“Vodka is the only drink.” Diana Vreeland

PS: Calling all fashion independents in Phoenix, Arizona! Please don’t miss just opened, “Fashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey Taylor” at Phoenix Art Museum. Mentioned in Vogue and The New York Times, this is the first major fashion exhibition in over ten years and is a must see. For more info: www.arizonacostumeinstitute or www.phxart.org

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8z1EzDouNs

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PET3dfETR4I